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American bars with which Paris is now studded, a chop is obtainable, and
a whisky and soda which is not poison; but I, personally, Bavarian Pot Roast when _Paté de
Foie Gras_ becomes a horror, truffles a burden, and rich sauces an
abomination, go to one of the _Tavernes_, the Royale in the Rue Royale,
or the Anglais in the Rue Boissy dAnglas (where you get Lucass food at
lower prices than in the restaurant by the Madeleine), or into one of
the many houses of plain cookery on the boulevards, and order the
simplest and least greasy soup on the bill of fare, some plainly grilled
cutlets, and some green vegetables. A pint of the second or third claret
on the wine-card washes down this penitential repast. At Puloskis, an
uninviting-looking little establishment in the Rue St-Honoré, I have
eaten excellent dishes of oysters cooked according to American methods,
and that dry hash which boarding-house keepers across the Atlantic are
supposed to serve perpetually to their paying guests, but which an
American abroad is always glad to meet. You will find a great variety of
oysters, Marennes, Ostendes, Zélandes, at Pruniers, in the Rue Duphot,
and the dishes of the house–soup, sole, steak–are all cooked with
oysters as a foundation, sauce, or garnish. Pruniers is the house at
which the travelling gourmet generally tastes his first snails, the
great Burgundian ones with striped shells, or the little gray fellows
from the champagne vineyards. If you eat Pruniers oysters you should
drink his white Burgundy. If you eat his snails, you should drink his
red wine, for he has some excellent red Burgundy.
Most travellers at least once in their lives go the round of Montmartre
and its Bohemian shows. I have dined with the great Fursy in the
restaurant attached to the Tréteau de Tabarin, and was given good
substantial bourgeois cookery. I asked the singer of the “Chansons

To make mini drums from the first joint: Using a small
sharp knife, cut around the narrower end to loosen meat.
Then, use knife blade to gently scrape meat down toward the
larger, knobby end of bone, turning meat inside out. To
make mini drums from middle joints: Cut around the
narrower end; cut tendons away and loosen meat. Then use
knife blade to gently scrape meat along both bones toward
the larger end. Pull out smaller bone, detaching with
knife if necessary. Turn meat inside out around knob of
remaining bone.
In large bowl, combine teriyaki sauce, oil, honey, vinegar
and ginger; mix well. Add chicken and coat well. Cover
and marinate overnight in refrigerator. Preheat oven to
3250F. Grease 2 large baking sheets with sides; arrange
chicken on baking sheets. Bake for 35 minutes or until
cooked through. Remove and roll in chopped nuts. Serve
hot or at room temperature.
SANTA FE CHICKEN QUESADILLAS (Kay sa diyas)Makes about 64
If you want to make this way ahead of time, you can cool
and then freeze the ungarnished quesadilla wedges between
layers of aluminum foil. Reheat in preheated 3000F oven
for 20 minutes and then add the garnish.
4 roaster boneless thigh cutlets
2 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon salt or to taste
1/4 teaspoon ground pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cans (4-ounces each) chopped mild green chilies
1 minced, canned or fresh Jalapeno pepper (optional)
16 flour tortillas (8 inches each)
8 tablespoons minced fresh coriander (also called cilantro
or Chinese parsley), optional
1 pound Monterey Jack or Cheddar cheese, grated
Mexican salsa or slivers of avocado sprinkled with lemon
juice,
chopped tomato, and coriander sprigs
Cut each thigh into 4 pieces. In container of food
processor fitted with steel blade, finely mince garlic.
Gradually add chicken pieces, cumin, salt and pepper; grind
to a fine texture.
In a large heavy, non-stick skillet, heat oil. Add ground
chicken mixture and cook over medium heat, stirring often.
Cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until meat is no longer pink.
Preheat oven to 3000F. Drain chilies and add to cooked
chicken. Place 8 tortillas on 2 large baking sheets and
brush lightly with water. Divide chicken mixture among the
8 tortillas, spreading a thin layer almost to the edges.
Sprinkle with chopped coriander and grated cheese; top with
remaining tortillas, pressing down edges to seal. Brush
lightly with water and bake for 15 minutes. Remove from
oven and cut each quesadilla into 8 wedges. If desired,
serve with Mexican salsa or top with avocado, Sweet Basil Tiramisu Custard tomato and
coriander.
SHERRY FRIED CHICKEN LIVERS Makes 12
I know people who didnt think they could lik think they
could like chicken livers who are won over when the flavor
of sherry wine is added.
12 chicken livers (about 1 lb.)
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
1 1/2 teaspoons salt or to taste
1/4 teaspoon ground pepper
1/2 cup dry sherry
In a large skillet over medium heat, melt butter. Add
chicken livers and saute for 6 to 8 minutes. Sprinkle with
salt and pepper. Add sherry, cover, and simmer 5 minutes
longer or until cooked through. Serve on toothpicks.
BLUE CHEESE CHICKEN SPREADMakes about 40
Although I usually prefer fresh products to canned ones, in
this case I recommend using canned pineapple. Fresh
pineapple has an unusual characteristic thats worth
knowing. It contains the enzyme bromelin which breaks down
protein. The blue cheese in this recipe is rich in protein
and fresh pineapple would not work well with it, unless you
added it just before serving so the bromelin doesnt have a
chance to break down the proteins and give it an off-
flavor. Canned pineapple, on the other hand, doesnt have
enough active bromelin to cause a problem.
Makes approx. 40 party sandwiches (1 tablespoon per
sandwich)
1 cup cooked, ground chicken
1 jar (5 oz.) blue cheese spread
1/2 cup drained, crushed pineapple
1/2 cup chopped almonds, lightly toasted
Salt and ground pepper to taste
In a bowl combine chicken with remaining ingredients. Use
as filling for party sandwiches.
MAIN COURSES – 7
CHICKEN CORDON BLEU FOR A CROWD Serves 15-20
There are many recipes for Chicken Cordon Bleu, but I like
this one because you can do everything the day before.
Reheat it in the microwave. Dont, however, freeze it.
Fried foods tend to get a “warmed over” taste after
freezing. Also, dont hold it in the refrigerator for
longer than a day.
And finally, when reheating it in the microwave, be sure to
rotate it several times so that you dont have uneven
warming. (Rotating the food in the oven performs the same
function as stirring a pot. If you dont rotate it, you
risk having some parts overcooked$and overcooked chicken is
tough chicken.)
20 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
1 cup butter or margarine, melted
1/3 cup minced, fresh parsley
20 slices Canadian bacon or ham
20 slices sharp or Swiss cheese
3 eggs, beaten
2 cups bread crumbs

Bourdette and the Urbana, both with French cookery, are the restaurants
patronised by the Englishmen in San Sebastian who talk Spanish, and both
are said to be fairly good.
Bilbao
It is curious that at the great northern town of Spain there should be
no first-class restaurants. The two best in the town are the Antiguo,
in the Calle de Bidebarrieta, and the Moderno. Both of these boast what
the Spaniards term _Cocina Francesa_, which only means that if you make
a request, as the English always do, the cook will fry your food with
butter instead of oil.
At Portugalete, the port of Bilbao, there is a restaurant, good, as
Spanish restaurants go, attached to the hotel of the place, the
proprietor of which is Dn. Manuel Calvo. The cook and the staff of
waiters come from Lhardys, the best restaurant in Madrid, and spend
their summer by the seaside. The prices at this restaurant are high.
Portugalete is only a summer resort.
Northern Towns
At Santander, a little further along the northern coast, the best food
to be obtained is found at the Hôtel Europa; but the best is bad at
Santander. At Burgos and at Zaragoza the two largest hotels in each
place give the least indifferent food.
Madrid
The capital of Spain cries aloud for a Carlton, or a Ritz, or a Savoy,
and is, I believe, soon to have a really large hotel with a restaurant
managed on the lines which we are accustomed to in all the important
European capitals. The Hôtel de Paris, one of the two noisy and
expensive hotels on the Puerta del Sol, has always had a reputation for
its cookery, always remembering that the standard in Spain is not high.
There is a _table-dhôte_ lunch and a _table-dhôte_ dinner, of the
latter of which I append a menu which is a fair specimen:–
Consommé Julienne.
Merlan Sauce aux Câpres.
Filet de Boeuf Renaissance.
Galantine Truffée à lAspic.
Haricots Verts Sautés.
Cailles au Cresson.
Crème au Chocolat Glacée.
Desserts assortis.
The cookery of the house is French, but Spanish dishes can be obtained
by an order given in advance. There used to be a manager at the Paris
who was known as Constantino–what his other name was no one knew. He
was a universal provider, and the Englishmen who knew him and who used
to stay at the Madrid, never hesitated to ask him for anything
procurable in the capital, from a ticket for a bull-fight to a genuine
Murillo, quite sure that next morning they would find in the office what
they had asked for the previous evening.
Lhardys, in the Curera de San Jerónimo, is the typical Madrid
restaurant not attached to an hotel. The appearance of the ground floor
is that of a _charcutiers_ and pastry-cooks combined. The restaurant
you will find on the first floor, where a _table-dhôte_ dinner and
lunch are served. The annexed menu shows what the daily lunch is like:–
Potage Tortue à lAméricaine.
Turbot Garni. Sauce Crevettes.
Filets de Boeuf à la Vatel.
Bellevue de Perdreaux à lEcarlate.
Dindonneaux rôtis au Cresson.
Salade Russe.
Glace Condé.
Dessert.
VINS.
Jeréz.
Bordeaux.
Champagne Frappé.
Café Hints Making Good Fudge and Liqueurs.
The Café de Fornos is also well spoken of by all who have experimented.
The restaurant at the Fornos is in the café on the ground floor. On the
first floor are the private rooms. There are several of the restaurants
with _cabinets particuliers_ where little suppers are given after the
theatre, the Fornos being one; but the Madrilese dandy, wishing to sup
_à deux_, generally chooses the Café Inglés, as the private rooms are
very well decorated. The Perla is also well spoken of. All these
restaurants profess the French cuisine, and at Lhardys as good a dinner
is obtainable as at the best restaurants of Barcelona.
Seville
At Seville you dine and breakfast at your hotel, whether it be the
Madrid or the Paris, both very good hotels for Spain. There is a
_table-dhôte_ dinner at each after the style of the meal of which I
have given a menu under the heading of Madrid. At both hotels an extra
charge is made to those aristocrats who will not sit at the long table
which runs down the centre of the highly ornamented dining-room and are
accommodated at little tables at the sides of the room. The great
_patio_ of the Madrid, with its palm grove and creepers, is a delightful
place to sit in after dinner.

Kernot and Alsop, for selling cocculus india, &c. 25_l._
Joseph Moss, for selling various drugs, 300_l._
Ph. Whitcombe, John Dunn, and Arthur Waller, druggists, for having
liquor for darkening the colour of beer, hid and concealed.
Isaac Hebberd, for having liquor for darkening the colour of beer, hid
and concealed.
Ph. Whitcombe, John Dunn, and Arthur Waller, druggists, for making
liquor for darkening the colour of beer.
John Lord, grocer, for selling molasses to a brewer, 20_l._ and costs.
John Smith Carr, grocer, for selling molasses to a brewer, 20_l._ and
costs.
Edward Fox, grocer, for selling molasses to a brewer, 25_l._ and costs.
John Cooper, grocer, for selling molasses to a brewer, 40_l._ and costs.
Joseph Bickering, grocer, for selling molasses to a brewer, 40_l._ and
costs.
John Howard, grocer, for selling molasses to a brewer, 25_l._ and costs.
James Reynolds, grocer, for selling molasses to a brewer, costs.
Thomas Hammond, grocer, for selling molasses to a brewer, 20_l._ and
costs.
J. Mackway, grocer, for selling molasses to a brewer, 20_l._
T. Renton, grocer, for selling molasses to a brewer, costs, and taking
out a license.
R. Adamson, grocer, for selling molasses to a brewer, costs, and taking
out a license.
W. Weaver, for selling Spanish liquorice to a brewer, 200_l._
J. Moss, for selling Spanish liquorice to a brewer.
Alex. Braden, for selling liquorice, 20_l._
J. Draper, for selling molasses to a brewer, 20_l._
PORTER.
The method of brewing porter has not been the same at all times as it is
at present.
At first, the only essential difference in the methods of brewing this
liquor and that of other kinds of beer, was, that porter was brewed from
brown malt only; and this gave to it both the colour and flavour
required. Of late years it has been brewed from mixtures of pale and
brown malt.
These, at some establishments, are mashed separately, and the worts from
each are afterwards mixed together. The proportion of pale and brown
malt, used for brewing porter, varies in different breweries; some
employ nearly two parts of pale malt and one part of brown malt; but
each brewer appears to have his own proportion; which the intelligent
manufacturer varies, according to the nature and qualities of the malt.
Three pounds of hops are, upon an average, allowed to every barrel,
(thirty-six gallons) of porter.
When the price of malt, on account of the great increase in the price of
barley during the late war, was very high, the London brewers discovered
that a larger quantity of wort of a given strength could be obtained
from pale malt than from brown malt. They therefore increased the
quantity of the former and diminished that of the latter. This produced
beer of a paler colour, and of a less bitter flavour. To remedy these
disadvantages, they invented an artificial colouring substance, prepared
by boiling brown sugar till it acquired a very dark brown colour; a
solution of which was employed to darken the colour of the beer. Some
brewers made use of the infusion of malt instead of sugar colouring. To
impart to the beer a bitter taste, the fraudulent brewer employed
quassia wood and wormwood as a substitute for hops.
But as the colouring of beer by means of sugar became in many instances
a pretext for using illegal ingredients, the Legislature, apprehensive
from the mischief that might, and actually did, result from it, passed
an Act prohibiting the use of burnt sugar, in July 1817; and nothing but
malt and hops is now allowed to enter into the composition of beer: even
the use of isinglass for clarifying beer, is contrary to law.
No sooner had the beer-colouring Act been repealed, than other persons
obtained a patent for effecting the purpose of imparting an artificial
colour to porter, by means of brown malt, specifically prepared for that
purpose only. The beer, coloured by the new method, is more liable to
become spoiled, than when coloured by the process formerly practised.
The colouring malt does not contain any considerable portion of
saccharine matter. The grain is by mere torrefaction converted into a
gum-like substance, wholly soluble in water, which renders the beer
more liable to pass into the acetous fermentation than the common brown
malt is capable of doing; because the latter, if prepared from good
barley, contains a portion of saccharine matter, of which the patent
malt is destitute.
But as brown malt is generally prepared from the worst kind of barley,
and as the patent malt can only be made from good grain, it may become,
on that account, an useful article to the brewer (at least, it gives
colour and body to the beer;) but it cannot materially economise the
quantity of malt necessary to produce good porter. Some brewers of
eminence in this town have assured me, that the use of this mode of
colouring beer is wholly unnecessary; and that porter of the requisite
colour may be brewed better without it; hence this kind of malt is not
used in their establishments. The quantity of gum-like matter which it
contains, gives too much ferment to the beer, and renders it liable to
spoil. Repeated experiments, made on a large scale, have settled this
fact.

Then, remarking that he was sure Mr. X. would not mind the dinner being
begun without him, the host ordered the soup to be brought up; and so,
with constant allusions to the man that never came, the dinner was
served, course by course, and the bet won before the proprietor had the
least idea that a trick had been played upon him.
A somewhat similar story, it will be remembered, is told of Delmonicos
and its proprietor in the early history of that great New York
restaurant. In the American story, the youth who had dined in a _cabinet
particulier_ with a lady, in contravention of the rules of the house,
had not the sense to hold his tongue until after he had paid his bill.
When that document did make its appearance, some of the items were
astonishing. “You dont expect me to pay this bill?” said the astonished
diner to the proprietor, who had made his appearance. “No, I do not,”
said Mr. Delmonico, “but until you do you will not come into my
restaurant again.”
The following are some of the dishes Van der Pyls makes a speciality
of:–_Poule au pot Henri IV._, _Sole Normande_, _Côte de Boeuf à la
Russe_, _Homards à lAméricaine_, _Poularde à la Parisienne_, _Perdreaux
au choux_, _Omelette Sibérienne_, _Soufflé Palmyre_, _Poires Alaska_,
most of them standard dishes of the usual _cuisine Française_, though
the _Omelette Sibérienne_ was invented to please a British diplomat who
preferred a _soupçon_ of absinthe to either rum or Kümmel with his
omelette. And this is a typical menu drawn up by M. Anjema, a menu which
reads as though it were for a French banquet:–
Huîtres de Zélande.
Caviar.
Consommé Diplomate.
Truite Saumonée à la Nantua.
Poularde à lImpériale.
Noisettes de Chevreuil à la St-Hubert.
Délice de foie gras au Champagne.
Bécassines rôties. Salade St-Clair.
Tartelettes aux Haricots Verts.
Mousse Antoinette.
Sandwiches au Parmesan.
Dessert.
The Café Royal, in the Vijberberg, with an American luncheon bar on the
ground floor and a restaurant upstairs, is fairly good.
Of the hotels to which restaurants are attached, the Hôtel des Indes and
Hôtel Vieux Hungry Howies Pizza Subs – Clair Mel In Tampa, Florida Doelen have a reputation for good cookery. The former was in
olden times the town house of the Barons van Brienen, and in winter many
people of Dutch society, coming to the capital from the country for the
season, take apartments there, and during that period of the year the
restaurant is often filled by very brilliant gatherings. The manager,
Mr. Haller, has been made a director of Claridges Hotel in London, and
divides his attention between the two hotels.
The following menu is a typical one of a dinner of ceremony at the Hôtel
des Indes; it was composed for a banquet given by Count Henri Stürgkh:–
Huîtres.
Consommé Bagration.
Filets de Soles Joinville.
Carré de Mouton Nesselrode.
Parfait de foie gras de Strasbourg.
Fonds dArtichauts à la Barigoule.
Grouse rôtis sur Croûtons.
Compote de Montreuil.
Coeurs de Laitues.
Crème au Chocolat et Vanille.
Paillettes au Fromage.
The Vieux Doelen has a beautiful old dining-room, and it is here that
every year the smartest balls in the capital take place, given by the
Société du Casino, and generally attended by Their Majesties and the
Court.
Hocks fish shop in the market has a room where excellent oyster suppers
are served, but this is not a place to which ladies should be taken at
night, for it is then patronised by damsels who take the courtesy title
of actresses, and the students from Leiden.

M. Roche, who made a little fortune in London in Old Compton Street, has
taken a little hotel near Granville, and as he learned cooking under
Frederic of the Tour dArgent, he may be depended upon for an excellent
meal.
Breton Resorts
Of the land of butter and eggs I have not much to write. Correspondents
at St-Malo say a good word of the feeding both at the Hôtel de lUnivers
and the Hôtel du Centre et de la Paix; but I cannot speak of either of
these from personal knowledge, nor do I know anything of Dinard, though
it is said that the best cookery in the province is found there. Cancale
of course has its oyster-beds, and the esculent bivalve can be eaten
within sight of the mud-flat on which it erstwhile reposed. The one
restaurant in this part of the world for which every one has a good word
is that of Poulard Aîné at Mont St-Michel, where there is a cheap
_table-dhôte_ and where a good meal _à la carte_ is also to be
obtained.
Artichokes, prawns, potatoes, _langouste_, eggs, lobsters, crabs, are
good all along the Breton coast; and at Quimper, at the Hôtel de lEpée,
you can–if you are in luck–get fresh sardines.
Here is a typical Breton menu, one of the meals at the Hôtel des Bains
de Mer, Roscoff:–
Artichauts à lHuile.
Pommes de terre à lHuile.
Porc frais froid aux Cornichons.
Langouste Mayonnaise.
Canards aux Navets.
Omelette fines Herbes.
Filet aux Pommes.
Fromage à la Crème.
Fruits, biscuits, etc.
Cidre à discrétion.
This is rather a terrible mass of food ranged in the strangest order,
but I insert it to show the traveller in Brittany that he need never
think his meal ended when he reaches the omelette, and that he had
better take a gargantuan appetite with him.
Apart from being a good homely place to stay at, La Villa Julia at Pont
Guidos Pizza Mooresville Indiana Aven is worth a visit, for it has been the temporary home of many of the
greatest French painters, notably poor Bastien Lepage. They are
welcome, and are provided with studios, only being charged 5 francs a
day “pension.” “The country is charming” writes an enthusiastic
correspondent “and one lingers there, and the food is excellent. Even
were it not, dear old Mlle. Julia is worth a journey. She is one of the
most delightful of French landladies. In the old inn the walls of one
large room are covered with pictures and sketches given her by her
_chers artistes_.”

It is well known that bottles in which wine has been kept, are usually
cleaned by means of shot, which by its rolling motion detaches the
super-tartrate of potash from the sides of the bottles. This practice,
which is generally pursued by wine-merchants, may give rise to serious
consequences, as will become evident from the following case:[38]
“A gentleman who had never in his life experienced a days illness, and
who was constantly in the habit of drinking half a bottle of Madeira
wine after his dinner, was taken ill, three hours after dinner, with a
severe pain in the stomach and violent bowel colic, which gradually
yielded within twelve hours to the remedies prescribed by his medical
adviser. The day following he drank the remainder of the same bottle of
wine which was left the preceding day, and within two hours afterwards
he was again seized with the most violent colliquative pains, headach,
shiverings, and great pain over the whole body. His apothecary becoming
suspicious that the wine he had drank might be the cause of the
disease, ordered the bottle from which the wine had been decanted to be
brought to him, with a view that he might examine the dregs, if any were
left. The bottle happening to slip out of the hand of the servant,
disclosed a row of shot wedged forcibly into the angular bent-up
circumference of it. On examining the beads of shot, they crumbled into
dust, the outer crust (defended by a coat of black lead with which the
shot is glazed) being alone left unacted on, whilst the remainder Three Fat Guys Pizza Peoria Illinois of the
metal was dissolved. The wine, therefore, had become contaminated with
_lead and arsenic_, the shot being a compound of these metals, which no
doubt had produced the mischief.”
TEST FOR DETECTING THE DELETERIOUS ADULTERATIONS OF WINE.
A ready re-agent for detecting the presence of lead, or any other
deleterious metal in wine, is known by the name of the _wine test_. It
consists of water saturated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, acidulated
with muriatic acid. By adding one part of it, to two of wine, or any
other liquid suspected to contain lead, a dark coloured or black
precipitate will fall down, which does not disappear by an addition of
muriatic acid; and this precipitate, dried and fused before the blowpipe
on a piece of charcoal, yields a globule of metallic lead. This test
does not precipitate iron; the muriatic acid retains iron in solution
when combined with sulphuretted hydrogen; and any acid in the wine has
no effect in precipitating any of the sulphur of the test liquor. Or a
still more efficacious method is, to pass a current of sulphuretted
hydrogen gas through the wine, in the manner described, p. 70, having
previously acidulated the wine with muriatic acid.
The wine test sometimes employed is prepared in the following
manner:–Mix equal parts of finely powdered sulphur and of slacked
quick-lime, and expose it to a red heat for twenty minutes. To
thirty-six grains of this sulphuret of lime, add twenty-six grains of
super-tartrate of potassa; put the mixture into an ounce bottle, and
fill up the bottle with water that has been previously boiled, and
suffered to cool. The liquor, after having been repeatedly shaken, and
allowed to become clear, by the subsidence of the undissolved matter,
may then be poured into another phial, into which about twenty drops of
muriatic acid have been previously put. It is then ready for use. This
test, when mingled with wine containing lead or copper, turns the wine
of a dark-brown or black colour. But the mere application of
sulphuretted hydrogen gas to wine, acidulated by muriatic acid, is a far
more preferable mode of detecting lead in wine.